Aug. 10, 2017 Aug. 10, 2017
Off Colombia's Caribbean coast, two hours from Cartagena, sits a dot of an island, just over two acres big and barely noted on maps. Until a few generations ago, it was uninhabited, a rest stop for fishermen lured to its shores by the simple promise of solid ground. Then some decided to stay. A few more joined them. And so on until Santa Cruz del Islote became what it is today: the most densely-populated island on earth. That's what attracted Charlie Cordero, a documentary photographer from Barranquilla, just as it draws tourists from all over the world. Everyone wants to see what it's like for 1,200 people to live on a patch of land four times as dense as Manhattan, with no services – no running water, sewer system, police, hospital, trash pickup.
The setup sounds like a recipe for misery, but Mr. Cordero, who usually documents struggling communities, spent six months discovering otherwise. Mr. Cordero, who is 27 years old and teaches photography at the Universidad del Norte in Barranquilla, described the joy of documenting an island culture with no crime, no violence and no prejudice; one that upends all assumptions about living in a confined space in the middle of the sea. Evelyn Nieves spoke with him about his work. Their interview has been edited for length and clarity.
Describe what it looks and feels like to walk around the island.
Walking through this place is a unique experience, like I am in a totally different reality. Walking through its narrow streets, between the colorful houses, and to feel the energy of its people is contagious. It is a reality where there is no violence, no fear of being mugged, where there was never armed conflict. It is a population of survivors struggling constantly with the land, where in each and every corner, on each street, things are happening. Groups of children running everywhere playing traditional games; teenagers listening to trap in Spanish at full volume with their dreadlocks and tattoos while the adults sit in the shadow of their homes, talking about boxing while preparing meals. It is a magical place, like a story from Gabriel García Márquez.
One of the main sources of income for the island is tourism. There are young people and adults on the island who have trained themselves to be guides and to tell the visitors the stories of the place. The tour begins with how many people live there, how they survive in spite of the lack of water and electricity, their education. Also, A small pond has been adapted into what they call an aquarium, so visitors can jump in and swim with two real sharks and for 5,000 pesos.
Santa Cruz del Islote has no beaches, in the past and in its eagerness for growth, the natives have been reclaiming space from the sea using rubble, rubbish and shells, which is why it does not have a natural beach. However, anyone can dive into the sea. A transparent blue sea full of small fish and coral; at the same time, the transparency of the water shows one of its problems: the management of the wastes.
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A child plays off of one of the island's shores.Credit Charlie Cordero
Santa Cruz del Islote looks like a poor neighborhood. Photographing there has been a great experience, because I have learned many things about tolerance and the importance of working together and living harmoniously without the need of laws or police. It has been a lesson about humanity. In addition, I have taken to the limit my abilities as a photographer, from the approach to a community that is not very open to this type of work to the creation of images that narrate the way I understand the place.
I've always been honest with the community about what I'm doing. Everyone is aware of my eagerness to capture the essence of their customs and lifestyle. I have been able to gain the confidence to be able to walk through any corner of the island with my camera. They see me as someone closer, someone who understands their problems, someone who is part of the community. They may not be aware of the scope of the work, but they appreciate that I am interested in their stories.
What do you hope to show by documenting this place?
I want to show their struggle for this land and how human beings adapt. We are creatures of custom. I also hope to capture the magic of this place — its colors, its characters and what happens there — and finally be able to witness and show people in a place where coexistence and common work is the most important thing. It is a reflection on the role of man as an inhabitant of a society, to make this island a metaphor for our world.
Did you find any occasions where police, hospital — or any of the services the island lacks — would have come in handy? Is is always self-policing and self-sufficient? Do residents have to leave the island for everything?
Santa Cruz del Islote's inhabitants mention there is no need for a police station, most of the issues are solved without any trouble in a peaceful way by the community.
However, there are some services that would solve most of the common issues. Having a hospital with more and better supplies would help sick or injured community members without having to travel all the way to Cartagena or Tolú. A better sanitation service, with prepared personnel handling waste and taking proper care of the environment would definitely improve life conditions. The most troubling is supplying drinking water and electricity for a community in the middle of the Caribbean.
Waiting for rain or buying high-priced water tanks are the most tedious and complicated tasks, and having those services would help. Today, electrical service works from 5 p.m. until 6 p.m., thanks to solar panels donated by the Japanese Government.
There are three stores in Santa Cruz del Islote which are supplied through boats coming from Tolú or Cartagena with the basic products, which means that the inhabitants can find food, toiletries, cigarettes, beer and alcohol.
All sorts of vendors come to this island, too, selling everything from ice cream to clothing. You can find almost everything for a relatively comfortable life, but in some cases it is necessary to go out to find some specific things like appliances, cellphones or electronics.
There is a school in the town which covers part of the Colombian educational program, which normally goes from first grade to 11th grade. Currently, students only reach 10th grade, however it is being worked on so they can finish their education.
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Marcela Morales, 27, lying in her bed.Credit Charlie Cordero
As a community, Santa Cruz del Islote is joyful, dynamic, constantly moving, vibrating and thriving. Despite that, they are aware of their issues and difficulties, and struggle every day to overcome and find solutions for everyone.
The island's biggest problems are the lack of drinking water, proper sewage disposal and electricity. They say they are forgotten by the Colombian state. They are currently fighting for a desalination plant to have drinking water.
The island is populated exclusively by natives. They and their families own the houses, which are passed from generation to generation. It is uncommon to see a non-native with a house in the island. Physical space is the biggest issue and the most precious treasure.
What do you intend to do with this project?
My goal is to finish the project by the end of the year or by the beginning of the next year with the sole purpose to tell the world about the magic of this place. García Márquez's magical realism lives in the streets and, as I have mentioned earlier, gives testimony of how humans adapt and can live together in what could be chaos. It's a great example of survival, tolerance and teamwork. Within a country preparing to deal with forgiveness and reconciliation. It is also an opportunity to tell the stories from the Caribbean, which are more than just sun, beach, breeze and sea.
Follow @charliecorderop and @nytimesphoto on Twitter. Charlie Cordero is on Instagram. You can also find Lens on Facebook and Instagram.
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