Monday, September 10, 2018


The Most Honest Book About Climate Change Yet

William T. Vollmann’s latest opus is brilliant, but it offers no comfort to its readers.
Nathaniel Rich
MichaƂ Klimczak
Authors like to flatter themselves by imagining for their work an “ideal reader,” a cherubic presence endowed with bottomless generosity, the sympathy of a parent, and the wisdom of, well, the authors themselves. In Carbon Ideologies, William T. Vollmann imagines for himself the opposite: a murderously hostile reader who sneers at his arguments, ridicules his feeblemindedness, scorns his pathetic attempts at ingratiation. Vollmann can’t blame this reader, whom he addresses regularly throughout Carbon Ideologies, because she lives in the future, under radically different circumstances—inhabiting a “hotter, more dangerous and biologically diminished planet.” He envisions her turning the pages of his climate-change opus within the darkened recesses of an underground cave in which she has sought shelter from the unendurable heat; the plagues, droughts, and floods; the methane fireballs racing across boiling oceans. Because the soil is radioactive, she subsists on insects and recycled urine, and regards with implacable contempt her ancestors, who, as Vollmann tells her, “enjoyed the world we possessed, and deserved the world we left you.”
Carbon Ideologies is a single work published in two parts, No Immediate Danger and No Good Alternative, the bifurcation due to the insistence of Vollmann’s weary publisher and the limitations of modern bookbinding. Of all the writers working today, Vollmann must be the most free: He writes fiction, essays, monographs, criticism, memoir, and history, usually merging several forms at once, taking on subjects as diverse as Japanese Noh theater, train hopping, and the Nez Perce War, all the while dilating to whatever length suits him. (After 25 books, his career word count now rivals Zane Grey’s.)
No Immediate Danger: Volume One of Carbon Ideologies
By William T. Vollman
Viking
As is often the case with Vollmann, his decades-long war of attrition with his editors spills over into the pages of the finished book. Carbon Ideologies begins with the confession that the original manuscript was “several times longer than its contractually stipulated maximum”; after “anxious negotiations,” his publisher “finally agreed to indulge me once more.” Not, mind you, his nonfiction publisher—which he walked away from after it proposed an advance that was less than the amount of money he had already spent on research—but his fiction publisher. (“I sincerely hope that someday all this will be worth it to you,” he writes in a loving acknowledgment.) Viking did hold the line when it came to the endnotes, which run to 129,000 words and can be examined online or in Vollmann’s archive at Ohio State University.
No Good Alternative: Volume Two of Carbon Ideologies
By William T. Vollmann
Viking
The 1,268 pages that remain are as gloriously and maddeningly unclassifiable as most of Vollmann’s work. The closest analogue is Rising Up and Rising Down, his seven-volume, 3,300-page treatise on violence, which Vollmann calls a companion text. Carbon Ideologies is about another kind of violence, the violence inflicted by the production of coal, natural gas, oil, and nuclear energy. The victims of these carbon ideologies are not only the species of fauna and flora that are going extinct, the fragile ecosystems that will collapse, and the future generations of humans who will have to subsist on insects. The victims are us—we who are now living and who deny, to varying extents, the degree of damage we are inflicting upon ourselves. Carbon Ideologies is a chronicle of self-harm.
It is also an almanac of global energy use. The initial volume opens with a 200-page primer busy with tables, lists, and data (“I assure you that there will be no harm in skipping to page 217”) and concludes with 80 pages of definitions, units, and conversions (“Readers should feel free to skip this section”). It is a travelogue to natural landscapes riven by energy production, most prominently Fukushima (nuclear), West Virginia (coal), Colorado (natural gas), and the United Arab Emirates (oil). It is a work of oral history, containing dozens of interviews with laborers who toil in or live beside nuclear reactors, caves, and oil refineries, paired with Vollmann’s own snapshots. And it is a compassionate work of anthropology that tries to make sense of man’s inability to weigh future cataclysm against short-term comfort. Carbon Ideologies is most fascinating, however, for what it is not: a polemic.
Nearly every book about climate change that has been written for a general audience contains within it a message of hope, and often a prod toward action. Vollmann declares from the outset that he will not offer any solutions, because he does not believe any are possible: “Nothing can be done to save [the world as we know it]; therefore, nothing need be done.” This makes Carbon Ideologies, for all its merits and flaws, one of the most honest books yet written on climate change. Vollmann’s undertaking is in the vanguard of the coming second wave of climate literature, books written not to diagnose or solve the problem, but to grapple with its moral consequences.
It is also a deeply idiosyncratic project: Vollmann’s idiolect is obsessive, punctilious, twitchy, hyperobservational, and proudly amateurish. The data he presents are at times revelatory. A homeless person in America uses twice as much energy as the average global citizen; 61 percent of the energy generated in the United States in 2012 “accomplished no useful work whatsoever”; from 1980 to 2011, global energy use nearly tripled. Elsewhere the data are impossibly arcane (“Power Wastage by Group-Driven Machine Tools, ca. 1945 [Deducting Idle Machines]”) or defiantly unscientific (“I am sorry that I could not make my table simple, complete or accurate”). His insatiable appetite for detail yields both irrelevant trivia (“Embarking on the Super Limited Hitachi Express, which was also known as the Super Hitachi 23 Limited Express”) and magisterial portraits of landscapes befouled by poking and prodding and, in the case of West Virginia’s mountains, decapitating.
The Fukushima section is especially uncanny in its evocation of a sublime coastal landscape vibrating with gamma rays. Vollmann breathes a cool wind “whose degree of particulate contamination was of course unknown,” hears on a silent street at night the grunting of a radioactive wild boar, and walks on broken glass through an abandoned clothing store advertising a 50 percent–off sale and peopled by headless mannequins. Though nuclear fission does not produce greenhouse-gas emissions, its horrors come to stand for those of climate change, a vast terror invisible to those victimized by it—at least in the short term. Though Vollmann refers to the Fukushima chapters when he writes that his project is sustained on “little more than blindness, uneasiness, helplessness and ignorance,” he is describing all of Carbon Ideologies.
These qualities reach their fullest expression in the statements made by government and industry officials against charges of environmental menace. In Fukushima, objects in the fallout zone are not radiated but “contaminated.” In West Virginia, mountains do not have their summits chopped off but are granted “removal of overburden.” Fracking “is safer and has less environmental impact than driving a car,” a marketing director from Shale Crescent USA claims, while coal miners, according to the president of the West Virginia Coal Association, “are the greatest practicing environmentalists in the world.” Vollmann records such inanities alongside observations from figures such as Buddha (“People are ignorant and selfish”), Edmund Spenser (“Worse is the danger hidden than descried”), and Loren Eiseley (“Just as instincts may fail an animal under some shift of environmental conditions, so man’s cultural beliefs may prove inadequate to meet a new situation”). Vollmann longs to prove Buddha, Spenser, and Eiseley wrong, and submits softball questions to every industry executive he encounters; but outside of Japan, almost nobody in a position of authority agrees to comment.
Most of the extensive interviews that dominate Carbon Ideologies are thus conducted with men who work in caves or pits to produce the energy we waste. If “nothing is more frightful than to see ignorance in action” (Goethe), these encounters are a waking nightmare. Oil-refinery workers in Mexico, coal miners in Bangladesh, and fracking commissioners in Colorado are united in their shaky apprehension of the environmental damage they do, not to mention the basic facts of climate change and its ramifications. “Mostly their replies came out calm and bland,” Vollmann reports, though this doesn’t prevent him from recording them at length, nearly verbatim. On occasion his questions do elicit a gem of accidental lyricism, as when an Indian steelworker at a UAE oil company, asked for his views on climate change, replies, “Now a little bit okay, but in future it’s very danger.” It’s hard to improve on that.
Vollmann doesn’t blame the migrant steelworker for his complacency or ignorance, of course. He blames himself—often and profusely. He takes special delight in quantifying, in painstaking detail, the energy he burns in such activities as writing a draft of Carbon Ideologies, walking around the corner from his Tokyo hotel to buy a tray of convenience-store tonkatsu, and making a milkshake for his daughter. These passages are as instructive as they are tedious. They dramatize not only the tenacity of our reliance on fossil fuels, but the impossibility of truly comprehending our own culpability in our planet’s fate. How often do you pause to think about the amount of coal burned every time you take an elevator, charge your phone, or operate your blender? Even extravagant acts of self-denial are powerless in the face of such profligate consumption. Vollmann likens our most ambitious energy-conservation efforts to “a dieter who keeps eating his daily fill of cheese, pastries and ice cream … despite the laudable fact that he put broccoli on his lunch plate last Thursday.”
The global hunger for pastries grows more ravenous each year. Whatever Good Samaritan savings we can make by improving infrastructure or bicycling to work will be dwarfed by the billions who will leap onto the grid in the coming decades. About a third of the human population cooks meals over biomass—wood, charcoal, farm scraps, and animal dung. Nearly 1 billion people have no access to electricity. It will not take all of India’s adopting “the American way of life” to trigger gargantuan increases in global emissions. India’s ascending to the Namibian way of life will be enough.
The demand problem, the growth problem, the complexity problem, the cost-benefit problem, the industry problem, the political problem, the generational-delay problem, the denial problem—Vollmann scrupulously catalogs all the major unsolved problems that contribute to the colossus of climate change. “Whatever ‘solution’ I could have proposed in 2017,” he writes, “would have been found wanting before the oceans rose even one more inch!” (The title of a late chapter, “A Ray of Hope,” is to be read sarcastically.) Nor have his six years of traveling the world, tabulating data, and interviewing experts changed his mind about any major aspect of the issue. The reader who begins Carbon Ideologies hopeless will finish it hopeless. So will the hopeful reader.
But there exist other kinds of readers—those who do not read for advice or encouragement or comfort. Those who are sick of dishonesty crusading as optimism. Those who seek to understand human nature, and themselves. Because human nature is Vollmann’s true subject—as it must be. The story of climate change hangs on human behavior, not geophysics. Vollmann seeks to understand how “we could not only sustain, but accelerate the rise of atmospheric carbon levels, all the while expressing confusion, powerlessness and resentment.” Why did we take such insane risks? Could we have behaved any other way? Can we behave any other way? If not, what conclusions must we draw about our lives and our futures? Vollmann admits that even he has shied away from fully comprehending the damage we’ve done. “I had never loathed myself sufficiently to craft the punishment of full understanding,” he writes. “How could I? No one person could.” He’s right, though books like Carbon Ideologies will bring us closer.
The planet’s atmosphere will change but human nature won’t. Vollmann’s meager wish is for future readers to appreciate that they would have made the same mistakes we have. This might seem a humble ambition for a project of this scope, but only if you mistake Carbon Ideologies for a work of activism. Vollmann’s project is nothing so conventional. His “letter to the future” is a suicide note. He does not seek an intervention—only acceptance. If not forgiveness, then at least acceptance.

This article appears in the October 2018 print edition with the headline “The Brutal Truth About Climate Change.”
We want to hear what you think about this article. Submit a letter to the editor or write to letters@theatlantic.com.
Measure
Measure

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Nearly 3,000 people died in Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria




A much-anticipated report out of George Washington University Tuesday shows that Hurricane Maria resulted in 2,975 excess Puerto Rican deaths in the six months following the storm’s landfall.

This latest death toll, gathered by a team of independent researchers, is more than twice the rate of what the Puerto Rican government admitted to earlier this month. It’s also an incredible increase from the earliest official estimate of 64 deaths, showing how the island’s devastation may have been underestimated for months after the storm hit shores last September, while Americans there languished
The study is based on mortality data that compares deaths from September 2017 to February 2018 to years prior, according to the Washington Post. Puerto Rico’s governor commissioned the George Washington University report in February after advocates decried the initial death toll estimate as egregiously low.
Ahead of the hurricane, the researchers wrote that communication plans between federal and first-responder agencies and were not coordinated and led to “inoperable and disconnected emergency plans.”
“Overall, we estimate that 40 percent of municipalities experienced significantly higher mortality in the study period than in the comparable period of the previous two years,” the researchers wrote.
A much-anticipated report out of George Washington University Tuesday shows that Hurricane Maria resulted in 2,975 excess Puerto Rican deaths in the six months following the storm’s landfall.
This latest death toll, gathered by a team of independent researchers, is more than twice the rate of what the Puerto Rican government admitted to earlier this month. It’s also an incredible increase from the earliest official estimate of 64 deaths, showing how the island’s devastation may have been underestimated for months after the storm hit shores last September, while Americans there languished.
The study is based on mortality data that compares deaths from September 2017 to February 2018 to years prior, according to the Washington Post. Puerto Rico’s governor commissioned the George Washington University report in February after advocates decried the initial death toll estimate as egregiously low.
Ahead of the hurricane, the researchers wrote that communication plans between federal and first-responder agencies and were not coordinated and led to “inoperable and disconnected emergency plans.”
“Overall, we estimate that 40 percent of municipalities experienced significantly higher mortality in the study period than in the comparable period of the previous two years,” the researchers wrote.
The latest death toll is still lower than what Harvard University researchers estimated in May, at 4,645 deaths, although that study included things like shuttered hospitals and interrupted health care.
At the time Puerto Rico’s more recent estimate of 1427 deaths was made public, officials there were requesting $139 billion in aid from legislators to fix the various ills that have plagued the island for nearly a year.
Cover image: A demonstrator places a candle next to empty pairs of shoes displayed outside the Capital building during a protest against the government's reporting of the death toll from Hurricane Maria in San Juan, Puerto Rico, on Friday, June 1, 2018. (Photo: Xavier Garcia/Bloomberg via Getty Images)





The Goodbye Windows



Roberto raced across the station house to the glass windows facing the platform. He climbed onto the wooden bench set against the windows and pressed his wind burned face to the glass. The warmth of his breath formed a small circle of fog on the cold window.
“Roberto!”
“Si Mama?” Robert
o turned from the windows to see his Mama and Grandmother, Abuela he called her, stroll slowly in from the cold outside to the frigid stale air of the station house.
“Don’t leave me like that,” said Mama. “Get down from there. You’re not supposed to be up there.”
“Aye. Se quiere ver el tren,” said his Grandmother. “Dejarlo, Sylvia.”
“I want to see the fast train go by,” Roberto said to his Mama. “I want to see all the people get on so I can wave good-bye to them. Just like I’ll wave to you, Mama, when you go to work in the city.”
Roberto reached for his Mama. She caught him in her arms as he leaned forward off the bench to fill her embrace and lay his head on her shoulders. Her body was warm despite the cold room they stood in. Roberto looked around at the old wood house. The thin walls, washed lightly in white paint that cracked and flaked to the floor where it stained the concrete like white chalk across a chalkboard, did nothing to protect them against the cold. The used furniture provided little comfort. He could smell the coffee and sugar pastries that were sold on a cart across the room from the windows, that was the only source of warmth in the room beyond ones own body heat.
All around he could see people that were friends. Just as Mama did every Monday morning, their friends traveled to the city for the week to be near their jobs. Like Mama two years ago, they had journeyed here, north into the mountains outside of the city for a false promise of work the government had made. After settling down to live and work in the mountains, and unable to get back into the low income housing projects they had left behind, they stayed in the mountains and traveled back to the city for work.
A distant bell rang out in urgency. Just as urgently, Roberto stepped back from his Mama onto the bench and knelt down to look out the windows. Roberto looked to his left in the direction of the bell. There was the curious little sound of track metal clanking lightly like chimes, the frost on the train tracks shimmering. Suddenly the heavy winter coats of passengers waiting on the platform began to unfurl in a growing wind. Hats blew off. Scarves quivered furiously. People on the platform dashed for the safety of the station house, and then stood back to face the windows. The sound of thunder, like the sound of a thousand horses stampeding, shook the wretched little station house. The aging paper-thin walls rattled, as if in fear. White paint flaked down to the ground. Everyone stood in anticipation of what was about to occur.
Roberto pressed his little face against the window. Passengers still out on the platform turned away from the tracks looking toward the station house and stood vigilant against the growing thrust of wind.
All at once, the giant engine of iron exploded into view. Nothing but its dark mass filled all you could see from the station house or platform. The wall of air that had developed before it blew all the doors open. The heat of it’s passing breath filled the station house. You could smell the cold air burning, quickly warming everyone at once.
The pounding of the metal wheels against the tracks seemed to go on forever as car after car of the express train roared passed them. Roberto stared at the people on the platform. Their faces contorted and frozen in reaction to the wind and noise from the train as it passed.
The final car snapped by in a blur. Roberto turned his head right, his left cheek pressed against the warm window glass, staring in amazement at the train as it sped away and disappeared from sight. He turned to his Mama with a smile.
Mama smiled back and said, “Every time Roberto. Every time the same thing.”
“Va ser un ‘conductor’,” said Grandmother and chuckled.
Roberto turned back to the windows as everyone who had rushed into the station house returned to the platform. Then just as before, though less sudden, the tracks clanked even lighter, the wind barely rushed upon them but no one hurried into the station house, as another iron diesel engine lumbered along the tracks. There wasn’t any hot breath from its fire filling the station house as it slowly filled the view from the windows and stopped at the station. Just the bellowing sound of its engine rattled the wooden bench and tickled Roberto’s kneecaps.
“Give me ‘un beso’, Roberto,” said Mama. She leaned over to him as he turned and stood up on the bench. His little arms wrapped around her neck. He kissed her on the cheek. Mama patted his back and kissed him behind his ear.
“Te veo Mommy,” said Mama to Grandmother, kissing her wrinkled forehead.
Roberto watched Mama pick up her small worn yellow suitcase and rush along with the rest of the people to board the train. The train hissed and moaned as it settled down on the tracks and blew steam from its underside. Roberto looked through the windows of the station house, running from one end of the bench to the other, watching the darkened windows for a sign of Mama. Other faces appeared in the windows. Some he knew, others he didn’t. To all he waved hearty good-bye’s, and they all waved back at him.
Mama’s face suddenly appeared in a window at the far end of the car she had boarded. She didn’t seem to acknowledge him when he waved.
“Mama,” called Roberto. He flailed his arms hoping she would see him. Still she didn’t wave back. “Mama!”
Then she waved.
“Abuela! She sees me,” Roberto called to his grandmother. “She sees me, Abuela!”
Mama waved her arm, her head turned in the direction of the station house, though their eyes never met.
The train whistle blew. The engine hissed and blew steam that covered the platform. The train lurched forward in sudden fits of seizure, then slipped into a regular rhythm and cruised on. The steam from the engine dissipated as the train pulled away.
Roberto waved until the train was out of sight. He stood with his arms at his sides. One day, Roberto knew, he would take a trip as everyone else did, into the city. To see where he had been born. To see the cousins Mama tells him so much about, to travel like everyone else. So that one day he could look from the train and see another little boy waving good-bye to him through the windows of the station house. Then he would wave back and smile.


His grandmother took him by the arm and helped him down off the bench. They walked out of the empty station house together and into the cold mountain air.


Monday, August 27, 2018

The Odyssey Continues

I saw it again...  2001: A Space Odyssey....

So far a couple of hundred times and of late finally in IMAX for the first time and in a theatrical venue where where my wife and I could see and analyse it as well...and so I did...

Dave Bowman brings the new AE-35 unit to replace a failed unit and in a reverse shot after Bowman places the new unit on a mag-hold pad while swapping the bad with the good in the reverse shot it becomes obvious neither unit is in the shot and the new unit should be there on the mag-hold pad...

Friday, August 24, 2018

Head of the Table

He's supposed to sit at the head of the table, 
not cook dinner, 
not even serve it 
but make sure the rules are followed, 
that everybody does their part, 
everyone gets their due, 
everyone gets fed... 
He's not the King and don't treat him like one.... 
You want a King, go to Russia..

Monday, August 20, 2018

Archaeologists find evidence of an ancient lost city in Kansas — Los Angeles Times

Archaeologists explore a rural field in Kansas, and a lost city emerges

By David Kelly

Of all the places to discover a lost city, this pleasing little community seems an unlikely candidate.
There are no vine-covered temples or impenetrable jungles here — just an old-fashioned downtown, a drug store that serves up root beer floats and rambling houses along shady brick lanes.
Yet there's always been something — something just below the surface.
Locals have long scoured fields and river banks for arrowheads and bits of pottery, amassing huge collections. Then there were those murky tales of a sprawling city on the Great Plains and a chief who drank from a goblet of gold.
A few years ago, Donald Blakeslee, an anthropologist and archaeology professor at Wichita State University, began piecing things together. And what he's found has spurred a rethinking of traditional views on the early settlement of the Midwest, while potentially filling a major gap in American history.
Using freshly translated documents written by the Spanish conquistadors more than 400 years ago and an array of high-tech equipment, Blakeslee located what he believes to be the lost city of Etzanoa, home to perhaps 20,000 people between 1450 and 1700.
They lived in thatched, beehive-shaped houses that ran for at least five miles along the bluffs and banks of the Walnut and Arkansas rivers. Blakeslee says the site is the second-largest ancient settlement in the country after Cahokia in Illinois.
On a recent morning, Blakeslee supervised a group of Wichita State students excavating a series of rectangular pits in a local field.
Jeremiah Perkins, 21, brushed dirt from a half-buried black pot.
Others sifted soil over screened boxes, revealing arrowheads, pottery and stone scrapers used to thin buffalo hides.
Blakeslee, 75, became intrigued by Etzanoa after scholars at UC Berkeley retranslated in 2013 the often muddled Spanish accounts of their forays into what is now Kansas. The new versions were more cogent, precise and vivid.
"I thought, 'Wow, their eyewitness descriptions are so clear it's like you were there.' I wanted to see if the archaeology fit their descriptions," he said. "Every single detail matched this place."
Kacie Larsen of Wichita State University shakes dirt through a screened box to see what artifacts may emerge. (David Kelly / For The Times)
Conquistadors are often associated with Mexico, but a thirst for gold drove them into the Midwest as well.
Francisco Vazquez de Coronado came to central Kansas in 1541 chasing stories of a fabulously wealthy nobleman who napped beneath trees festooned with tinkling gold bells. He found no gold, but he did find Native Americans in a collection of settlements he dubbed Quivira.
In 1601, Juan de Oñate led about 70 conquistadors from the Spanish colony of New Mexico into south-central Kansas in search of Quivira in the hopes of finding gold, winning converts for the Catholic Church and extracting tribute for the crown.
According to Spanish records, they ran into a tribe called the Escanxaques, who told of a large city nearby where a Spaniard was allegedly imprisoned. The locals called it Etzanoa.
As the Spaniards drew near, they spied numerous grass houses along the bluffs. A delegation of Etzanoans bearing round corn cakes met them on the river bank. They were described as a sturdy people with gentle dispositions and stripes tattooed from their eyes to their ears. It was a friendly encounter until the conquistadors decided to take hostages. That prompted the entire city to flee.
Oñate's men wandered the empty settlement for two or three days, counting 2,000 houses that held eight to 10 people each. Gardens of pumpkins, corn and sunflowers lay between the homes.
The Spaniards could see more houses in the distance, but they feared an Etzanoan attack and turned back.
That's when they were ambushed by 1,500 Escanxaques. The conquistadors battled them with guns and cannons before finally withdrawing back to New Mexico, never to return.
This bluff overlooks the spot where many believe Spanish conquistador Juan de Oñate met a delegation of Etzanoans. (David Kelly / For The Times)
French explorers arrived a century later but found nothing. Disease likely wiped out Etzanoa, leaving it to recede into legend.
Blakeslee enlisted the help of the National Park Service, which used a magnetometer to detect variations in the earth's magnetic field and find features around town that looked like homes, storage pits and places where fires were started.
Then, relying on descriptions from the conquistadors, he discovered what he believes was the battle site in an upscale neighborhood of Arkansas City.
Volunteers using metal detectors found three half-inch iron balls under the field. Blakeslee said they were 17th century Spanish cartridge shot fired from a cannon. A Spanish horseshoe nail was also found.
It all lent credibility to the detailed accounts left by the conquistadors.
The battlefield sits in Warren "Hap" McLeod's backyard.
"It's a great story," he said. "There was a lost city right under our noses."
McLeod, 71, offered a quick tour of the area.
He started at Camp Quaker Haven overlooking the spot where Oñate would have encountered the Etzanoans. McLeod then drove up to the country club, the highest point in the city of roughly 12,500 people.
"Lots of artifacts have been taken from here," McLeod said.
(Los Angeles Times)
In 1994, thousands of relics were unearthed during road construction. In 1959, the renowned archaeologist Waldo Wedel wrote in his classic book, "An Introduction to Kansas Archeology," that the valley floor and bluffs here "were littered with sherds, flints, and other detritus" that went on for miles.
"Now we know why," McLeod said. "There were 20,000 people living here for over 200 years."
Local rancher Jason Smith, 47, said he had seen collections "that would blow your mind."
"Truckloads of stuff," he said. "Worked stone tools, flints. One guy had 100 boxes at his house."
Russell Bishop, 66, worked at the country club as a kid.
"My boss had an entire basement full of pottery and all kinds of artifacts," he recalled. "We'd be out there working and he would recognize a black spot on the ground as an ancient campfire site."
Bishop, who now lives outside Denver, has coffee cans full of arrowheads. He spread some on his counter.
"I don't think anyone knew how big this all was," he said. "I'm glad they're finally getting to the bottom of it."
Kansas State Archaeologist Robert Hoard said that based on the Spanish accounts and the evidence of a large settlement, it's "plausible" that Blakeslee has found Etzanoa.
Still, he would like more evidence.
The early Great Plains had long been imagined as a vast empty space populated by nomadic tribes following buffalo herds. But if Blakeslee is right, at least some of the tribes were urban. They built large towns, raised crops, made fine pottery, processed bison on a massive scale and led a settled existence. There were trade connections all the way to the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan in Mexico.
"So this was not some remote place. The people traded and lived in huge communities," Blakeslee said. "Everything we thought we knew turns out to be wrong. I think this needs a place in every schoolbook."
And that may just be the beginning. Blakeslee has found archaeological evidence in Rice and McPherson counties for other large settlements extending for miles, which he believes existed around the same time as Etzanoa.
He has published his findings in the peer-reviewed journal Plains Anthropologist, and next spring he will present his evidence for Etzanoa at the annual meeting of the Society for American Archaeology. A bigger excavation is planned for next summer.
The Wichita Nation, based three hours south in Anadarko, Okla., is watching all of this carefully. Experts believe the Etzanoans were their ancestors.
"The accounts of Oñate and Coronado have been interpreted for years," said Gary McAdams, cultural program planner and historic preservation officer for the Wichita and Affiliated Tribes, which number about 3,300. "We had a suspicion it was settled like this, but now it's starting to be documented, which makes it feel more real."
In the meantime, Arkansas City is trying to determine how to promote its new claim to fame. Etzanoa remains mostly underground or on private land. Yet that hasn't deterred interest.
"We get about 10 calls a day to see the lost city," said Pamela Crain, director of the Convention & Visitors Bureau. "The vision is to have a visitors center. The other key is to persuade landowners to allow people onto their property."


LEFT: Professor Donald Blakeslee of Wichita State University shows a black pot unearthed by student Jeremiah Perkins, behind him. RIGHT: Russell Bishop still has the arrowheads he collected as a kid in Arkansas City. (David Kelly / For The Times)
Limited tours began last spring, focusing on key historical and archaeological sites. Town leaders are hoping for a UNESCO World Heritage site designation.
Back at the dig site, all eyes were on Jeremiah Perkins as he lifted the hefty black potsherd from the dirt.
Blakeslee dropped into the pit for a closer look. It was the largest artifact of the summer, perhaps 12 inches high.
"That's a nice big cooking pot," he exclaimed.
Yet many mysteries remain about the people of Etzanoa.
"How were they organized? How did they farm the bluffs? How did they maximize bison herds?" Blakeslee asked. "The questions go on and on and on."
And the thought of that made him smile.
Kelly is a special correspondent.
Measure
Measure
Evernote helps you remember everything and get organized effortlessly. Download Evernote.